Check Engine Light Flashing? What It Means & What to Do (2026)

A flashing check engine light means your engine is actively misfiring right now. This is not the same as a steady check engine light. Pull over safely, turn off the engine, and do not keep driving. A flashing light means unburned fuel is being dumped into your exhaust system, which can destroy your catalytic converter in minutes and turn a $200 spark plug job into a $3,000 catastrophe.

This guide explains exactly why your check engine light is flashing, what the most common causes are, what each repair actually costs, and what to do step by step. I have been diagnosing and repairing engine misfires for over 20 years as an ASE-Certified Master Technician and ATRA member. Every number in this guide comes from real diagnostics and real repairs we perform at our shop.

Quick Reference: Flashing vs. Steady Check Engine Light

Before we go deeper, here is the critical difference you need to understand.

A steady light is your car asking for an appointment. A flashing light is your car screaming for help. If you want to understand the full difference, we wrote a detailed comparison in our flashing vs solid check engine light guide.

Why Your Check Engine Light Is Flashing: What the ECM Is Detecting

Your engine control module (ECM) -- the computer that manages your engine -- monitors the combustion process in every cylinder, hundreds of times per second. It uses input from the crankshaft position sensor to track whether each cylinder is producing its expected power contribution at the expected time.

When the ECM detects that a cylinder has failed to produce power -- meaning the air-fuel mixture did not ignite properly or did not ignite at all -- it registers a misfire event. Every car built after 1996 has this monitoring system as part of OBD-II (On-Board Diagnostics, generation two).

Here is the key: the ECM tracks misfire rates as a percentage. If the misfire rate on any cylinder exceeds a threshold (typically around 2-4% of firing events, depending on the manufacturer), the ECM switches the check engine light from steady to flashing. The threshold is specifically calibrated to the point where unburned fuel reaching the catalytic converter will cause damage.

In other words, your ECM is not guessing. It has measured the misfire rate, determined it is high enough to cause catalytic converter damage, and is flashing the light as the most urgent warning your car can give you short of shutting the engine down entirely.

Some newer vehicles (2020+) will actually reduce engine power or disable the affected cylinder when the misfire is severe enough. If your car suddenly loses power and the check engine light starts flashing, that is the ECM protecting the engine and catalytic converter.

The Most Common Causes of a Flashing Check Engine Light

In our shop, we see the same causes over and over. Here they are, ranked roughly by how often we encounter them.

1. Misfiring Spark Plugs (Most Common)

Spark plugs ignite the air-fuel mixture in each cylinder. When a spark plug wears out, fouls, cracks, or gaps incorrectly, it cannot create a strong enough spark to ignite the fuel. The result is a misfire.

This is the single most common cause of a flashing check engine light, and it is also the cheapest to fix. Spark plugs are a wear item -- they are supposed to be replaced at regular intervals. But many drivers skip this maintenance because the car seems to run fine right up until the moment it does not.

Signs it is spark plugs:

• Misfire appeared gradually (got worse over weeks or months)

• Rough idle that smooths out slightly at higher RPMs

• The car has over 80,000 miles on the original spark plugs (conventional) or over 100,000 miles (iridium/platinum)

• Worse in cold or wet weather

Typical repair cost: $100 - $300 for a 4-cylinder, $200 - $400 for a 6-cylinder, $250 - $500 for a V8 (parts and labor). Some vehicles with plugs buried under intake manifolds or other components cost more in labor.

2. Faulty Ignition Coils

Ignition coils amplify the 12 volts from your car's electrical system to the 20,000-40,000 volts needed to create a spark at the plug. Modern vehicles use a coil-on-plug (COP) design where each cylinder has its own dedicated coil sitting directly on top of the spark plug.

When a coil fails, the affected cylinder gets no spark at all. This causes a 100% misfire rate on that cylinder -- every single firing event is a miss. The check engine light will flash immediately because the misfire is severe and constant.

Signs it is an ignition coil:

• Sudden onset -- the car was running fine and then immediately started misfiring

• One specific cylinder is misfiring (the scanner will show P0301, P0302, P0303, etc. -- the last digit tells you which cylinder)

• Swapping coils between cylinders moves the misfire to the other cylinder (this is the definitive test)

Typical repair cost: $150 - $350 per coil (parts and labor). If one coil has failed on a high-mileage vehicle, we often recommend replacing all of them at the same time because the others are likely close behind.

3. Fuel Injector Problems

Fuel injectors spray a precisely measured amount of fuel into each cylinder at exactly the right moment. When an injector fails, it can either spray too much fuel (stuck open), too little fuel (clogged), or spray in a poor pattern (worn nozzle). Any of these will cause a misfire.

A completely dead injector causes a 100% misfire rate on that cylinder, similar to a failed coil. A partially clogged injector causes intermittent misfires that may come and go under different driving conditions.

Signs it is a fuel injector:

• Misfire that gets worse under load (accelerating, climbing hills)

• Fuel smell from the exhaust

• Scanner shows a specific cylinder misfiring, and swapping coils did NOT move the misfire (ruling out the ignition system)

• On direct-injection engines: ticking or knocking noise from the fuel rail area

Typical repair cost: $200 - $600 per injector (parts and labor), depending on the vehicle. Direct-injection injectors cost significantly more than port-injection injectors.

4. Low Fuel Pressure or Failing Fuel Pump

Your engine needs fuel delivered at a specific pressure to atomize properly in the combustion chamber. If the fuel pump is weak, the fuel filter is clogged, or the fuel pressure regulator is failing, the pressure drops below specification. When fuel pressure is too low, multiple cylinders can misfire simultaneously because none of them are getting enough fuel.

Signs it is fuel pressure related:

• Multiple cylinders misfiring at once (P0300 random misfire code)

• Worse under heavy load or high RPM (when fuel demand is highest)

• Engine stumbles or hesitates during acceleration

• Hard starting, especially when the tank is low

Typical repair cost: Fuel pump replacement: $400 - $900. Fuel filter replacement: $50 - $200. Fuel pressure regulator: $200 - $400.

5. Vacuum Leaks

Your engine relies on a sealed intake system to maintain the correct air-fuel ratio. A vacuum leak introduces unmetered air -- air that the ECM does not know about and cannot compensate for. This creates a lean condition (too much air, not enough fuel) that can cause misfires, especially at idle and light throttle.

Common vacuum leak sources include cracked or disconnected vacuum hoses, a leaking intake manifold gasket, a torn brake booster diaphragm, or a cracked PCV valve hose.

Signs it is a vacuum leak:

• Misfire is worse at idle and improves somewhat at higher RPMs

• High or erratic idle speed

• Hissing sound from the engine bay

• Lean fuel trim readings on a scanner (high positive long-term fuel trims)

Typical repair cost: $100 - $400 depending on the source. A cracked hose is a $20 part. An intake manifold gasket can run $300 - $600 in labor.

6. Catalytic Converter Damage (Consequence, Not Usually the Initial Cause)

Here is something important to understand: a failing catalytic converter usually does not cause a flashing check engine light by itself. The catalytic converter is typically the victim, not the cause. A prolonged misfire dumps unburned fuel into the converter, which overheats and melts the internal substrate.

However, once the converter is damaged enough, it can become so clogged that it restricts exhaust flow. This backpressure can cause the engine to run poorly and trigger additional misfires -- creating a vicious cycle.

If your scanner shows both a misfire code (P0300-P0312) AND a catalytic converter efficiency code (P0420 or P0430), the misfire came first and damaged the converter. Fix the misfire cause first, then assess the converter.

Typical repair cost if the converter is destroyed: $1,000 - $3,000+ depending on the vehicle. California-compliant converters (required by law in CA) cost significantly more than federal-spec converters.

7. Sensor Failures (O2, MAF, MAP)

Your ECM relies on sensors to determine how much fuel to inject and when to fire the spark. When these sensors fail or send bad data, the ECM makes incorrect adjustments that can lead to misfires.

• Oxygen (O2) sensors: Measure exhaust oxygen to fine-tune the air-fuel ratio. A failed O2 sensor usually causes a steady check engine light first, but severe cases can cause rich or lean conditions bad enough to cause misfires and a flashing light. See our P0455 EVAP system guide for related sensor issues.

• Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor: Measures the volume and density of air entering the engine. A dirty or failed MAF sensor causes the ECM to miscalculate fuel delivery.

• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor: Measures intake manifold vacuum to help determine engine load. Failure causes incorrect fuel and ignition timing calculations.

Typical repair cost: O2 sensor: $150 - $400. MAF sensor: $100 - $300 (cleaning first -- often fixes it for $0). MAP sensor: $100 - $250.

8. Timing Chain or Timing Belt Issues

The timing chain (or belt) synchronizes the crankshaft and camshaft so that valves open and close at precisely the right moment relative to piston position. If the timing chain stretches, a timing belt skips a tooth, or a tensioner fails, valve timing shifts out of specification. This directly affects combustion and can cause misfires across multiple cylinders.

Signs it is a timing issue:

• Rattling noise from the front of the engine (timing chain)

• Multiple cylinders misfiring simultaneously

• Loss of power that feels different from a single-cylinder misfire

• Engine cranks longer than normal before starting

Typical repair cost: Timing chain replacement: $800 - $2,500. Timing belt replacement: $500 - $1,200. If the timing has jumped enough to cause valve-to-piston contact, you are looking at a much more serious (and expensive) engine repair.

Check Engine Light Flashing and Car Shaking: What This Combination Means

If your check engine light is flashing AND your car is shaking, you are experiencing a severe misfire that is affecting the engine's balance. This is one of the most common and most alarming symptoms drivers encounter, and it is not something you should push through.

Here is what is happening mechanically: your engine is designed to fire all cylinders in a specific sequence to produce smooth, balanced power. When one or more cylinders stop firing, the engine becomes unbalanced -- like a washing machine with all the clothes on one side. The remaining cylinders are still producing power, but the dead cylinders are producing nothing. This imbalance causes the vibration you feel as shaking.

The shaking gets worse under certain conditions:

• At idle: The imbalance is most noticeable when the engine is running slowly because each misfire represents a larger percentage of the total firing events

• Under load (accelerating, going uphill): The engine is working harder, and each misfire is more pronounced

• At certain RPM ranges: Some misfires are speed-dependent, occurring only when specific conditions align

What makes it shake versus just run rough:

• One cylinder misfiring: Noticeable roughness, slight vibration, loss of power

• Two cylinders misfiring: Obvious shaking, significant power loss, the car may struggle to accelerate

• Three or more cylinders misfiring: Violent shaking, very little power, the car may stall

Critical warning: If your car is both shaking and the check engine light is flashing, do not drive it. Every second the engine runs in this condition, unburned fuel is being dumped into the catalytic converter. The converter can reach temperatures over 1,400 degrees Fahrenheit -- hot enough to glow red, melt the internal substrate, and in extreme cases, start a fire under the vehicle. We have seen converters that looked like melted glass inside after drivers tried to limp the car to a shop.

Check Engine Light Flashing Then Stops: What This Means

If your check engine light flashes for a while and then goes back to steady (or turns off entirely), it means the misfire was intermittent. The ECM detected a misfire rate that exceeded the damage threshold temporarily, but then the misfire rate dropped back below the threshold.

This is not a sign that the problem fixed itself. It is a sign that the problem is conditional -- it happens under certain circumstances but not others.

Common reasons for intermittent flashing:

• Temperature-dependent misfire: An ignition coil that works fine when cold but breaks down when hot (thermal failure). The light flashes when the engine is fully warmed up and stops when conditions change.

• Load-dependent misfire: A weak fuel pump that delivers adequate pressure at idle but cannot keep up under heavy throttle. The light flashes during hard acceleration but stops at cruise.

• Moisture-related misfire: Cracked spark plug boots or plug wires that allow moisture in. The light flashes in humid conditions or after rain but stops as things dry out.

• Intermittent electrical connection: A coil connector with corroded pins that loses contact over bumps. The light flashes on rough roads but not on smooth highways.

What you should do: Even if the light stopped flashing, get the car scanned. The ECM stored the diagnostic trouble codes that were present when the flashing occurred. Those codes tell us exactly which cylinders were misfiring and give us a starting point for diagnosis. The problem will come back, and it will likely get worse.

What to Do When Your Check Engine Light Starts Flashing: Step by Step

Follow these steps in order. Do not skip step one.

Step 1: Reduce Power Immediately

Take your foot off the gas pedal. Do not accelerate hard. The goal is to reduce the load on the engine as much as possible, which reduces the severity of the misfire and slows the rate of catalytic converter damage.

Step 2: Find a Safe Place to Pull Over

Do not slam on the brakes in the middle of the highway. Turn on your hazard lights, move to the right lane, and find a safe location -- a parking lot, wide shoulder, or rest area. Safety comes first.

Step 3: Turn Off the Engine

Once you are safely stopped, turn the engine off. This stops the misfire and stops unburned fuel from reaching the catalytic converter.

Step 4: Wait 30 Seconds, Then Restart

After 30 seconds, try restarting the engine. In some cases, the misfire was triggered by a temporary condition (a one-time event) and the engine will restart normally with a steady light or no light at all. If the engine restarts and runs smoothly with no flashing light, you can carefully drive to a shop for diagnosis.

Step 5: If the Flashing Returns, Do Not Drive

If the light starts flashing again after restart, or if the engine shakes and runs rough, turn it off. Arrange for a tow to a shop. Driving with an active flashing check engine light is gambling with your catalytic converter, and potentially your engine.

Step 6: Get the Codes Read

Whether you drive carefully to a shop or get towed, the first step in diagnosis is reading the stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). These codes tell the technician which systems and cylinders are involved.

Common DTC Codes Associated with a Flashing Check Engine Light

When your check engine light flashes, the ECM stores one or more diagnostic trouble codes. Here are the codes we see most often:

Misfire Codes (P0300 - P0312)

These are the primary codes that cause a flashing check engine light.

A single-cylinder code (P0301-P0312) narrows the problem to one cylinder, making diagnosis faster. A P0300 random misfire code means the problem affects the whole engine and requires a broader investigation.

Lean Condition Codes

Lean codes combined with misfire codes are a classic pattern. The lean condition is causing the misfires.

Catalytic Converter Efficiency Codes

EVAP System Codes

Repair Cost Table: What to Expect

One of the most frustrating things about a flashing check engine light is not knowing what the repair will cost. Here is a realistic breakdown based on what we charge and what we see across the industry in 2026.

Important context: The diagnostic fee to figure out which of these repairs you need is typically $80 - $150 at an independent shop. Some shops (including ours) apply that diagnostic fee toward the cost of repair if you have the work done at the same location.

The most common scenario we see is a spark plug and/or ignition coil replacement -- $150 to $500 total. The fear is usually worse than the bill. But if you drive with a flashing light and destroy the catalytic converter, that $200 coil job becomes a $200 coil job PLUS a $2,000 catalytic converter -- and that is entirely avoidable.

How We Diagnose a Flashing Check Engine Light at Our Shop

Here is the actual diagnostic process we follow. This is what should happen at any competent shop.

Phase 1: Code Retrieval and Freeze Frame Data (5 minutes)

We connect a professional-grade scan tool (not a $20 code reader) and pull all stored DTCs and freeze frame data. Freeze frame data tells us the exact engine conditions (RPM, coolant temp, vehicle speed, fuel trims) at the moment the misfire was detected. This is critical context that a basic code reader does not provide.

Phase 2: Live Data Analysis (10-15 minutes)

We monitor real-time data from the engine sensors while the engine is running. We look at misfire counters per cylinder, fuel trim values, ignition timing, and sensor readings. This tells us whether the misfire is active right now and which systems are involved.

Phase 3: Component Testing (15-30 minutes)

Based on what the codes and live data point to, we test specific components. For ignition-related misfires, we swap coils between cylinders to see if the misfire follows the coil. For fuel-related misfires, we test fuel pressure and injector balance. For air-related misfires, we perform a smoke test to find vacuum leaks.

Phase 4: Root Cause Confirmation and Repair Plan (5 minutes)

Once we have identified the root cause, we confirm it and explain the repair plan in plain language. We tell you what failed, why it failed, what the repair costs, and what happens if you do not fix it. No jargon, no upselling, no surprises.

The entire diagnostic process typically takes 30 to 60 minutes. We charge a flat diagnostic fee that is applied toward the repair if you have the work done here.

Make-Specific Notes: What We See Most Often by Brand

Different manufacturers have different weak points. Here is what we see in our shop for the most common brands.

Toyota and Lexus

Toyota engines are among the most reliable, but they are not immune to misfires. The most common cause we see on Toyotas is ignition coils on the 2GR-FE V6 (found in the Camry, Highlander, RAV4, Sienna, Avalon, and multiple Lexus models). These coils tend to fail between 80,000 and 130,000 miles. The good news: coils are inexpensive and the repair is straightforward.

On the 4-cylinder 2AR-FE (Camry, RAV4), spark plugs tend to last well past 100,000 miles, but when they finally wear out, the misfire can be sudden.

Common codes: P0301-P0304, P0351-P0354 (coil circuit codes). Typical repair: $150 - $400.

Honda and Acura

Honda's most common misfire culprit is the ignition coil, particularly on the J-series V6 engines (Accord, Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline, and Acura MDX/TL/RDX). The rear bank coils are harder to access, so labor runs higher on V6 models.

On the 4-cylinder K-series engines, we occasionally see valve adjustment-related misfires. Honda K-series engines have mechanical valve adjusters (not hydraulic), and when they go out of spec, the valves do not open or close properly. A valve adjustment is a maintenance item that most owners do not know about.

Common codes: P0300-P0306, P0171 (lean condition from leaking intake manifold gaskets on V6). Typical repair: $150 - $500.

GM / Chevrolet

The GM 5.3L V8 (Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Suburban) is a workhorse, but it has a known issue with active fuel management (AFM) lifter failure. When an AFM lifter collapses, it causes a misfire on the affected cylinder that no amount of spark plug or coil replacement will fix. This is a more involved repair that requires removing the cylinder head.

On GM 4-cylinder turbo engines (Equinox, Malibu, Trax), carbon buildup on the intake valves is a common misfire cause because they use direct injection without port injection to keep the valves clean.

Common codes: P0300, P0301-P0308, P0521 (AFM-related). Typical repair: $150 - $500 for basic ignition, $1,500 - $3,000 for AFM lifter repair.

Ford

Ford's EcoBoost engines (3.5L V6 in F-150, Explorer, Expedition; 2.0L and 2.3L 4-cyl in Escape, Bronco Sport, Maverick) have a known issue with carbon buildup on intake valves similar to GM's direct-injection problem. We also see ignition coil failures on EcoBoost engines, particularly under high-boost conditions.

The older 5.4L Triton V8 (2004-2010 F-150) had a notorious spark plug ejection problem. If your Triton has never had the plugs changed, this is a job for a specialist -- the plugs can seize and break during removal.

Common codes: P0300-P0306, P0316 (misfire on startup), P0171/P0174 (lean conditions). Typical repair: $200 - $600 for basic ignition, $500 - $1,200 for carbon cleaning.

Subaru

Subaru's boxer engines are known for head gasket issues on older models, but on newer models (2012+), the most common misfire cause is ignition coil failure. The flat/boxer engine layout makes coil replacement slightly more labor-intensive than a typical inline-4 because the coils are oriented horizontally.

Subaru's CVT-equipped vehicles can sometimes exhibit symptoms that feel like a misfire but are actually CVT-related. If your Subaru is shaking and the check engine light is flashing, confirm it is an engine misfire and not a CVT issue before authorizing repairs.

Common codes: P0301-P0304, P0171 (common on turbo models). Typical repair: $200 - $500.

Hyundai and Kia

The Hyundai/Kia Theta II 2.4L and 2.0T engines had well-documented issues with connecting rod bearing failure and engine seizure (subject to recalls and warranty extensions). If your Theta II engine is misfiring and has high mileage, check whether your VIN is covered under Hyundai/Kia's engine warranty extension program before paying for repairs out of pocket.

On newer Smartstream engines, we see typical ignition coil and spark plug-related misfires similar to other brands.

Common codes: P0300-P0304. Typical repair: $150 - $400 (if not warranty-covered).

BMW and European Vehicles

European vehicles, particularly BMW, tend to be more expensive to diagnose and repair due to more complex engine management systems, tighter engine bay packaging (harder to access components), and higher parts costs.

BMW's N20 and N26 4-cylinder turbo engines have a known issue with timing chain stretch that can cause misfires. The B58 and S58 inline-6 engines are more reliable but still experience ignition coil failures. Direct injection carbon buildup is also common across BMW, Audi, and VW engines.

Common codes: P0300-P0306, BMW-specific codes (varies by model). Typical repair: $300 - $800 for basic ignition, $1,500 - $3,500 for timing chain.

Can You Drive With a Flashing Check Engine Light?

No. This is the one question we get asked more than any other, and the answer is always no.

Here is why, in plain terms:

When your check engine light is flashing, unburned fuel is passing through the exhaust valves and entering the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter operates at around 800-1,200 degrees Fahrenheit under normal conditions. When raw fuel enters the converter and ignites, temperatures can spike to over 1,400-1,800 degrees Fahrenheit.

At those temperatures:

• The ceramic substrate inside the converter melts. The converter is filled with a honeycomb ceramic structure coated in precious metals (platinum, palladium, rhodium). This structure melts and fuses together, blocking exhaust flow.

• The converter can glow red-hot. We have seen converters that were visibly glowing through the heat shield. This is a fire risk, especially if the car is parked over dry grass or debris.

• Backpressure builds up. Once the converter is clogged, exhaust cannot exit the engine. The engine loses power dramatically and may stall.

The math is simple: driving with a flashing light for 10 minutes can destroy a component that costs $1,000 to $3,000 to replace. The repair that caused the flashing light in the first place (usually a coil or plug) costs $150 to $500. Do not turn a $300 repair into a $3,000 repair by driving 5 more miles.

California and Sonoma County Specific: Smog Implications

If you live in California -- and especially here in Sonoma County where our shop is located -- a flashing check engine light has additional implications beyond the repair itself.

Smog Check Failure

California requires biennial smog checks for most vehicles. A check engine light of any kind -- steady or flashing -- is an automatic smog check failure. Your car will not pass until the light is off, the codes are cleared, and the vehicle's readiness monitors have completed their self-tests (which requires driving the car through specific drive cycles after the repair).

This matters because you cannot renew your registration without a valid smog certificate. If your registration is coming due and you have a check engine light, plan for the repair plus 50-100 miles of driving afterward to complete the readiness monitors before your smog appointment.

California Catalytic Converter Requirements

California has stricter catalytic converter requirements than the federal standard. If your converter is damaged from driving with a flashing light, you must install a CARB-compliant (California Air Resources Board) converter. These cost 2-3 times more than federal-spec converters because they must meet California's stricter emissions standards and must be CARB-approved for your specific vehicle application.

A federal-spec catalytic converter for a typical V6 might cost $300 - $600. The CARB-compliant equivalent for the same vehicle might cost $800 - $1,800. This is another reason not to drive with a flashing check engine light in California -- the financial penalty for damaging the converter is significantly higher here.

BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair) Consumer Assistance Program

If your vehicle fails a smog check and you cannot afford the repair, California's Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) offers a Consumer Assistance Program that provides repair assistance up to $1,200 for qualifying vehicles and owners. Income-qualified owners may also be eligible for the vehicle retirement program, which pays $1,000-$1,500 to retire a vehicle that would be too expensive to repair. We can help you navigate these programs if needed.

How to Prevent a Flashing Check Engine Light

Most flashing check engine light situations are preventable with basic maintenance. Here is what to stay on top of:

Follow Your Spark Plug Replacement Schedule

• Conventional copper plugs: Replace every 30,000 miles

• Platinum plugs: Replace every 60,000 - 80,000 miles

• Iridium plugs: Replace every 80,000 - 100,000 miles

• Double iridium / ruthenium plugs: Replace every 100,000 - 120,000 miles

These are maximums, not targets. If you are approaching these mileages, it is time.

Do Not Ignore a Steady Check Engine Light

A steady check engine light is often a warning that precedes a flashing light. The O2 sensor code you ignore for six months can cause a rich or lean condition that eventually degrades your catalytic converter or causes misfires. The EVAP code you dismiss as "just a gas cap" could be masking a more serious fuel system issue. Get steady lights diagnosed before they become flashing lights.

Use Quality Fuel

Contaminated or low-quality fuel can clog injectors and cause combustion issues. We are not saying you need premium unless your vehicle requires it, but consistently filling up at reputable stations and not running the tank down to fumes helps keep the fuel system clean.

Address Recalls and Known Issues

If your vehicle has a recall or technical service bulletin (TSB) related to ignition, fuel, or emissions systems, address it. Manufacturers issue these for a reason. The GM AFM lifter issue, Hyundai/Kia engine bearing issue, and Ford Triton spark plug issue mentioned above are all examples of known problems that are better addressed proactively.

Need Help? We Are Here.

If your check engine light is flashing, we can help. At Rohnert Park Transmission and Auto Repair, we diagnose and repair engine misfires every single day. Our ASE-Certified Master Technicians use professional-grade diagnostic equipment to find the exact cause of your misfire -- not guess at it.

We serve Rohnert Park, Cotati, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Sebastopol, Windsor, Healdsburg, and all of Sonoma County. If your car is not safe to drive, we can arrange towing to our shop.

Call us at (707) 584-7727 or stop by our shop at 305 Laguna Dr, Rohnert Park, CA 94928.

*Written by David Karimi, ASE-Certified Master Technician and ATRA member, with over 20 years of diagnostic and engine repair experience at Rohnert Park Transmission and Auto Repair.*

*Last updated: March 2026*

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